The flavors of the crackers, puffs, and candies inside were alternately zingy, tart, sweet, and salty. The Seasons of Japan box we tried had 22 snacks, which felt like enough to last one person one to two weeks or to tide over several people for a few days. Wirecutter editor of kitchen coverage Gabriella Gershenson has previously recommended the Victoria tortilla press, and we think it’s a great alternative. As for the tortilla press, such a tool does come in handy for making flat, perfectly round tortillas-but while Masienda’s press gets the job done, we didn’t love its white coating (which quickly started to ding), significant heft, or high price tag. You need to season the pan before use by coating it with a thin layer of oil or wax (they sell a seasoning wax on their website) and baking it for an hour, but that’s easy to do and Masienda provides instructions in the kit. It looks quite sleek, and the single handle makes it easy to hang on a peg board or hook for both easy access and display, à la Jacques Pépin. The comal is large enough to cook several tortillas at a time, and the pan’s gently sloping sides and shallow depth make it an ideal pan for cooking other foods, such as eggs or crêpes, too. But it heats up faster than cast iron, and it’s lighter to hold and therefore easier to handle. Like cast iron, the surface of carbon steel becomes nonstick when properly maintained and seasoned. The pan, made in collaboration with Made In, is fashioned from carbon steel. We think the comal kit is the superior gift after testing it alongside Masienda’s tortilla press kit. As one tester said, with some chagrin, “Once you have these, it’s hard to go back.”
BEST HOLIDAY GIFT BASKETS FULL
We made a stack of tortillas for a full house, and we happily finished them all. The tortillas, especially with a little salt added, taste like corn but also funky, nutty, and mature.
The ground corn is silty and soft and smells deeply fruity. We think this masa will be a treat for anyone who loves Mexican food or who loves to cook.
The Made In x Masienda Comal Kit comes with the comal pan and two bags of masa harina-your choice of white or blue-that each yields about 84 tortillas. But the star product is its masa, the nixtamalized ground corn that serves as a foundation for delicious tortillas and a host of other dishes like tamales, arepas, and tlayocos. Why it’s great: The online store Masienda sells an array of chef-worthy Mexican ingredients and cooking tools, sourced and made in collaboration with farming communities and artisans (founder Jorge Gaviria has done stints at acclaimed restaurants Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Maialino).
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